The name ‘Della Terra’ or ‘From the Land’ sums up this new Italian restaurant in Pererenan rather well. Every day the ingredients come fresh from the market, and from what arrives a new menu is divised and printed by Exec Chef Vinny Lauria using his favourite dishes garnered over many years of cooking world class Italian food. What arrives seasonally fresh that day dictates what you will see on the menu.
It’s not often I am impressed with so much in the Bali culinary scene nowadays, but Della Terra took me by surprise.
Vinny hails from Boston and has plenty of experience in the game, cooking in a bunch of restaurants in New York and other parts of the US, then later in Hong Kong and all over South East Asia over the past 15 years. Hong Kong was where he met the other three partners in this venture and one day, not long ago, there was an idea, perhaps a dream, and it was trying their hand in the Bali dining market. Well, they did it and have taken the scene by storm. Well, maybe not that far just yet, but with this gem of a restaurant, it shouldn’t take too long.
Della Terra is sited right on the side of the road. Turn right from Canggu Raya (coming from Seminyak) onto Jalan Raya Tiyingtutul and you are there. I first saw it driving home from a friend’s house, who lives up that way, a couple of months ago. I distinctly remember thinking to myself then, wow, where did that come from―that place looks pretty cool. Then last week I had a call from my daughter, Paloma who wanted to try a new Italian in Pererenan. Ok, I said, let’s do it. It was only when I arrived out the front that I remembered I had already been impressed.
Photos Above: The elegant interior and exterior of Osteria Della Terra. Left bottom. A private dining room is right next to the kitchen.
Dropping the car with the valet man out front, moving inside, being greeted by the reservationist, and seated was all a breeze. The interior is even more striking than the outside, with a stylish, understated, but classy décor. Polished dark timber finishes, dark verdant greens and subdued lighting keep the place super cozy and welcoming. When you enter this restaurant it’s like walking into a very classy New York Italian diner. Something you could find on the side of a street in East New York City, but here we were in East Pererenan.
Chef Vinny made his way out to our round wooden table with four classic bentwood chairs. The table is adorned with white cloth napkins and freshly poured full glasses of water. He says hello and begins explaining the process. We are seated right in front of the bar and open kitchen and things are already bustling as guests begin arriving, filling the tables.
First he explained how he prints a new menu daily. “I change a couple menu items based from what comes from the farm, coming up with new unique dishes based on what’s in season” He makes some suggestions as to what we should try and explains some of the history of the partners coming together to create this tasty dining space.
“We all knew each other in Hong Kong. There is one chef, that’s me, one is a long time resident of Bali and photographer, one was involved in media, he’s the creative director, and the CEO grew up working the floor in Italian restaurants in New Jersey,” he told us before scampering back to kitchen.
It appeared we were going to try the chef’s tasting menu of smaller sizes, but all dishes straight off the menu of the day.
Photos Above: Friends are never too far away at Osteria Della Terra. The kitchen hard at work.
We started at the beginning, of course, the Antipasti.
Marinated Cherry Tomatoes was a surprise package. It arrived in a small dish; peeled cherry tomatoes marinated with a tasty extra virgin olive oil sauce. There was also a blended, tomato bruschetta-style dipping dish that was totally amazing. Delicious starters they were.
Next, the Fazzoletti ‘Grano Arso’. Grano Arso is one of the house specialties.
Chef Vinny takes over, “The traditional old Italian method was to toast the wheat in a charcoal oven, which gives it a kind of toasted or nutty flavour, thus Grano Arso/ Burnt Grain, but we decided to have some fun with it and create our own interpretation. Instead of the oven, we grill our homemade pasta in some dishes. In this dish, the Fazzoletti ‘Grano Arso’, the pasta is charred on the grill, we make little handkerchief/ Frazzoletti parcels, filled with homemade ricotta from the beautiful, fresh cow’s milk from our supplier, we use great anchovies from Spain, and squeeze local lemon and extra virgin olive oil on top, then season. Viola!” Vinny gives a smile as he walks back to kitchen to prepare more. He seemed to enjoy being able to cook for us, you could see it in his face.
There is also a Pappardelle in the ‘Grano Arso’ vein, which again featured their signature charcoal grilled homemade pasta, coming with garlic butter, tossed in an uncooked colatura sauce and chili. Stupendo!
Photos Above: Chef Vinny explaining things and dishes from the menu.
Other dishes we tried from the menu were Mortadella Locale which arrived with some tangy Giardiniera, or pickles, and small gnocco Frito, and then came the Tuna Crudo with Nduja – a spicy spreadable salami from Calabria, Red Onion, Citrus and Fennel Pollen on slices of raw tuna.
Another star was the Fagiolini E Fagioli – a homemade bean pod shaped pasta with Cannellini beans, salami Calabrese, shallot, and parsley. What an exceptional pasta dish it was, leaving anything I could make at home in the dust! That’s the reason we all love great restaurants I guess. Again delicioso!
Sacchetti di Polpette was another excellent pasta dish, this time with a meatball ragu ravioli, with a vodka tomato sauce and Della Terra ricotta cheese. Yummo!
A special dish from the mains menu was the Maiale Scottadito, or baby back pork ribs—scottadito means “Burn your fingers”. “They are marinated for two days in a fennel salt cure. Then braised in beer. Then rubbed with a garlic fennel sugar rub,” grins Vinny. The ribs are then plated, circling a small bowl of whey crema dipping sauce. They were a quick-cooked variety of ribs and had an interesting sugar-like glaze on the charred meat. On the side, we had charcoal roasted peppers, in a citrus balsamic and mint drizzle. The perfect accompaniment to any ribs, any day.
The restaurant features an extensive wine list featuring natural and biodynamic wines from around the world, but mainly Italian. They also have a special local wine, Vini Della Casa, also with a special price, that is served by the carafe, and let’s not forget their excellent cocktails – a full array of classics and newbies.
Photos Above: Sacchetti di Polpette. Maiale Scottadito and Charcoal Roasted Peppers. Fagiolini E Fagioli.
The service, the décor, even the elegant crockery, plates and dishes were the perfect match for the meals served on that Thursday evening at the beginning of July. It was all truly exceptional from start to finish.
Authentic is the word that comes to mind with Osteria Della Terra. Everything is prepared ala minute, fresh and tasty with an attention to detail that only pros can deliver. As you can see, the grill is used extensively, not just with the meats and vegetables but including the way some pasta dishes are prepared.
They say the best New York style Italian restaurants are not only known for serving up excellent, quality food, but they’re also places where you want to take a seat, drink some great wine, and relax for a while, feeling right at home. Della Terra fits the bill perfectly and is not only a place to feel comfortable, but could also become your next favourite fine-dining experience.
We bade Chef Vinny and all the staff farewell at the door, sated and refreshed, already feeling like family and headed back to Berawa.
Text & photos: David Trauts
